Upper Arroyo Seco

Gabrielino National Recreation Trail

Arroyo Seco is undoubtedly the best-known canyon in Southern California. It's the site of the Rose Bowl and has the dubious distinction of hosting California's first freeway, the Pasadena. But the ten miles of canyon dominated by the freeway bear little resemblance to the ten miles of wild and rugged arroyo spilling from the shoulder of Mount Wilson.

And the arroyo is rugged. A quiet stream--lined with colonnades of alder, live oak and mountain lilac clinging to the narrow sides of the gorge--cascades over boulders of big gray granite. A walk through the wildest part of Arroyo Seco that visits Switzer Falls and a couple of peaceful trail camps.

Perry Switzer, a carpenter who regained his health in the invigorating San Gabriels, built a trail up the Arroyo Seco and decided to build a trail resort. He put up some rough log cabins, despite arguments that "no one would want to pay for a bed up among the grizzlies, mountain lions and bobcats." He earned the nickname "Commodore" because of his skill in navigating his squadron of burros as they forded the Arroyo Seco. His hospitality made Switzer's the most popular trail camp in the San Gabriels.

The resort passed into the hands of Lloyd Austin, who added a tennis court, chapel and dance floor. A sign across from the resort greeted visitors: "Leave your cars and animals this side of the stream." Switzer-land was popular with hikers well into the 1930s, until Angeles Crest Highway rendered the peaceful camp "obsolete."

During the Great Hiking Era, a hiker could venture up the Arroyo Seco and within an hour lose all signs of civilization. Amazingly, you still can today. This hike takes you past the site of Switzer's retreat and visits Switzer Falls. Further exploration of the Arroyo Seco country is possible by taking one of the optional trails to Oakwilde and Bear Canyon.

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(See previous hike description of the Lower Arroyo Seco.)

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The hike: Cross the bridge and follow the trail into the canyon. The pathway meanders with the stream under oak, alder and spruce. You'll cross and recross the stream several times and do some easy boulder-hopping. Plan to get wet. In some places, stream crossing is quite difficult in the spring. In a mile, you'll reach Commodore Switzer Trail Camp. Perched on a bench just above the falls, it's an inviting place complete with picnic tables. The creek trail below the camp dead-ends above the falls.

From the camp, cross the stream and follow the trail on the west slope. You'll soon get a nice view of the falls. A signed junction soon appears. To the right (southwest) is the main trail down to Oakwilde and Pasadena. Bear left here and hike down into the gorge of the Arroyo Seco below the falls. When you reach the creek, turn upstream 0.25-mile to the falls. Heed the warning signs and don't try to climb the falls; it's very dangerous.

Return the same way.

To Bear Canyon Trail Camp: Continue down the Arroyo gorge. After 0.75-mile, the trail reaches Bear Canyon and heads east up the canyon, crossing and re-crossing the creek. Along the way are many nice pools. In spring, the water is cold from snowmelt and little sun reaches the canyon floor. The trail, shaded by big cone spruce, closely parallels the creek.

When you look at an Angeles Forest map, you'll discover that Bear Canyon is surrounded on all sides by highways, dams and development. The canyon has no right to be so quiet, so pristine, but it is. As you boulder-hop from bank to bank, the only sound you'll hear is that of water cascading over granite and clear pools. Give thanks that there is at least one spot in the front range of the San Gabriels that is untouched wilderness, and continue to Bear Canyon Camp, two miles up the canyon.

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To Oakwilde: From the signed junction above Commodore Switzer Trail Camp, continue right on the Gabrielino National Recreation Trail. The trail leaves the main Arroyo Seco canyon, crossed a chaparral ridge, then drops into Long Canyon. It then descends to Arroyo Seco creek bottom and follows the creek an easy mile to Oakwilde Trail Camp. In this canyon, yuccas and a variety of wildflowers bloom seasonally.

"Oak Wylde," as it was known during the Great Hiking Era, was a jumping-off place for trips farther up the Arroyo Seco. Pack burro trains connected Oak Wylde with the stage station in Pasadena. The trail camp is located among the crumbling stone foundation of a resort. Alder and oak shade a pleasant campground and picnic area.

Return the same way, or continue down the Arroyo Seco.  (See Lower Arroyo Seco trail description.)

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